Email Sent on July 14

Hi Guys,

Well, I am off tomorrow morning for my trip to China. I am leaving at 6 a.m. to get to the airport, only to cool my engine for 3 hours. 14 hours flight! Yikes! I am either going to take a lot of Gravol to become drowsy or drink to become drunk.

What am I going to do for 14 hours? Well, I will either be sleepy or drunk.

The weather is suppose to be very hot! Yikes, again! I will carry an umbrella and look like a native Chinese. Yeah, you know the ones who protect their skin.

Toodles, will write from China. Even brought instructions on how to log on to the UCC server. I am looking forward to shopping. My sister advised me to bring an empty suitcase. Are you kidding! Me, rolling around with 2 suitcases on wheels? Okay, okay, so I stuffed a suitcase in a suitcase.

Cheers,
Melodie

Beijing - July 15-18

Visited Tiananmen Square, Forbidden City, Summer Palace. (Starbucks is located in the Forbidden City!) The walls of the city were taken down during the 10 year Cultural Revolution (1966 - 76), a time when the positions of the upper class (education, artists, doctors etc.) were reversed with the lower classes (farmers). The educated class was sent out to the fields to work and the children of farmers were given an opportunity to attend university. After the end of the Cultural Revolution (Mao's death), the children of the 'elite' class were allowed to attend university when they were in their late 20's. This period is seen by the locals as a catastrophic decade as the skills of many professionals were lost as well as many Chinese heritage sites were damaged.

The Summer Palace is north of Beijing, which became the capital of China after moving from Xian. The picture is of a stone boat that was created for the Empress Dowager (commonly known as the Dragon Lady) and floats in the man-made lake. Instead of putting money into a real navy, the Empress spent money on this boat that was to symbolize China's power. With no navy, China fell to Japan and the Quing Dynasty was the last. (see the movie "The Last Emperor")

Beijing is readying itself for the 2008 Olympics. Even without the Olympic buildings, the city is modern with spectacular architecture. (Toronto is bland.) The population is 15 million people and many ride bicycles. No one wears a helmet, including kids riding on the front or back of parents. Bikes, while locked, are not locked to railings etc. Bikes are not as fancy as North American brands. It is a wonder that there are not more accidents as vehicles rule the road. Lots of honking in the big cities.



Rickshaw ride through a hutong, which literally translates to 'alley'. This is a compound of buildings with many families and businesses. Some homes in the hutong are generational but many were created after the 'revolution' in 1949, when many rich families were forced out of their courtyard-styled homes. These homes with their many rooms were transformed into single family units, shared by poorer families. We visited an artist and his wife who make a living selling his art and holding lunches for tourist groups. His home in the hutong is generational but recently the government put 2 other families to live with him. He has sold spare rooms throughout the years.

The Great Wall of China - July 17


The Great Wall of China was created in the Ming Dynasty (1368 - 1644) to keep the Mongols in the north of the Gobi desert out of China. However, the Manchus did invade China to create a new Qing dynasty (the last dynasty). Folklore has it that a gate was left open to allow the invaders into China because of circumstances involving a woman.

The Great Wall is considered the Seventh Wonder of the World as well as listed as one of the World Cultural Heritage Sites. In fact, the terra-cotta soldiers are the Eighth Wonder of the World.

Email Sent on July 19

Hi Everyone!

We have been so busy that this is really the only opportunity that I have had to email from China. I am typing fast as I only have 15 minutes.

This is a trip of a lifetime. I do not know where to begin. China is facinating - developing, moving forward, but parts of it is still stuck in another century. There are 2 Chinas. One is modern and westernized and the other is poor and old. The poverty is heartbreaking. And we have not seen the poorest yet. The farmer is the poorest and 80% of the population are farmers. Their homes (really shacks) are sad. The people work so hard. You can see the sorrow in their faces. But people work, selling on the streets, collecting plastic bottles - no begging. They try everything to make a living. The rickshaw driver has a hard life too. The streets are clean because with the masses of people, there is always someone who will work, cleaning and sweeping the streets. The younger generation believes that communism failed and is only an ideal. It did not work as education and medication are not free. Life is hard for the poor. I am rambling.

We visited Beijing and are now in Xi An. Beijing has a population of 15 million. Xi An has a population of 3 million. The latter is a nicer looking city. Beijing has a lot of poverty around the edges. We visited the Summer and Winter Palaces, Temple of Heaven, a Hutong (a compound where many families live - meaning 'alley'), had a rickshaw ride through a Hutong.

So much to tell! The best and most fun yet was climbing the Great Wall. There is so much history! I am absorbing and trying to catalogue in my mind. Digesting and understanding the rich history of China and putting the past into perspective with the present.

Tomorrow we will go on our cruise along the Yanztze River. Will write later. My time is up.

Melodie

City of Xian - July 19

Terra-cotta soldiers were discovered by 4 farmers near the historic city of Xian in 1974 when they were asked to dig a well. The soldiers were created over a period of 15 years by an Emperor to accompany him in his burial tomb. Each statue is created after a soldier in the Emperor's army. The army is an amalgation of several armies that the Emperor defeated during this 'warring states' period; hence the different facial features and attire of the soldiers, which reflects their regions. Also, the uniforms denote rank. This Emperor brought several warring factions together to create one unifed China.

After the Emperor died, there was an uprising among the farmers who stole into the soldiers' tombs (with the aid of those who knew of their whereabouts) and took the weapons from the statues to use during the uprising. They set the tombs on fire, the roof collapsed and the soldiers were broken under the weight. The soldiers have been pieced together by archaelogists. In addition to soldiers, horses and chariots were found in the 3 tombs. Currently, work is suspended while preservation treatment can be explored for the statues.

We visited the Huanzing Hot Springs where one Emperor and his favourite concubine frolicked. There are several pools for the Emperor, his family and concubine to relax in.

Surrounding this city is the ancient city wall and many large mounds (similar to pyramids but not as elaborate), which are the burial grounds for past Emperors and their families. The earth to create these mounds was brought in from mountains.

Leaving Xian, we flew to Chongqing (July 20), a city of 33 million (same size population as Canada!) that is built on a mountain. This city does not have bike riders as the streets curve and wind. It is hard labour for the coolies as they carry heavy loads up and down the streets. One yuan gets a ride on a non-air conditioned bus while 2 yuans gets AC and curtains on the bus windows.

The women in Chongqing are reputedly beautiful. The hot, spicy food is supposed to keep the complexion clear. Babies are introduced to this cuisine at an early age by dabbing hot chili onto their tongues. I did note that people in north China (Xian) are very tall and the women are very slim too.

Yangtze River Boat Cruise - July 20 - 23

We entered the first of the 3 Gorges at 6:30 a.m. on July 22nd. I was so excited that I woke up early and was on deck by 6 a.m. to ' save' my spot for viewing. I have always wanted to see this part of the Yangtze river because of its spectacular scenery. China is very mountainous and there are many craggy mountains that give inspiration to artists.

Along some stretches of the river, trackers' paths can be seen. These are the well-worn paths of the men who worked as beasts of burden, pulling the vessels up river when the water level was low.

Other sections of the Yangtze river contain burial caves, which are the burial grounds of wealthy people whose descendents chose this offbeat site to thwart grave plundering. It is not known how these coffins were hoisted into the mountains. There is speculation that any paths leading to the caves were destroyed to hinder access. As the river rises, many of these unique caves will be buried under water.

Visited tributaries of the 2nd Gorge via a smaller boat and a sampan. The locals in this area do not look like 'typical' Chinese. Their clothing is more 'ethnic' in appearance.

Email Sent on July 23

Hi Everyone,

Just got off the cruise ship, coming down the Yangtze River (3rd largest in the world). It was an amazing trip, going through the Three Gorges and seeing the Three Gorge Dam Project. I felt that I was on a journey with Dad (Gung Gung) and saw the river as he saw it. The mountains are exactly as artists portray them and as Dad described them. They are magestic and inspiring. Each gorge is a little different - the one that is craggy is breathtaking.We are witnessing history in the making. The building of the dam, which has received negative publicity in the West seems to have been accepted and embraced by some. Of course, there are people who oppose the project, but as I talk to some locals, the young people do not mind the re-location as it means new apartments with all the amenities (AC, internet etc.). The old people are sad to leave their homes and farms, poor as they are. The city dwellers who owned their own homes received a new home. The people in apartments get a new apartment. New cities have been built for the relocation, either higher up the land or across the river. It is amazing how fast the buildings and bridges have been built. This project has been in the plans for decades, but work started in 1992 and will finish in 2009. Farmers who have lost their land will be relocated in other parts of the country (no choice) or helped to live in the cities, either taught a new trade or fall on menial work as porters/coolies. This has got to be one of the hardest work in spirit and body. The loads that these small men carry is staggering. If you want an eye opener in valuing what you have in Canada, come to China. Life is hard for the poor. And there are many, many poor people in China.

Back to the dam....the water is rising and will continue to until completion. Cities and farms will be covered and under water. Islands are destroyed to make way for the expected bigger ships carrying cargo. Because of the natural silt buildup, the expectation for the dam, which will produce hydro electricity for 15% of the population, is approx. 30 years. Can you imagine the 83 million U.S. $ that is spent to build this dam will last only a blink of an eye in Chinese history, which dates back to A.D. People speak of their own experience with the dam project and the young people seem okay with it. Of course, I did not talk to anyone older or a farmer. But there is an unease to speak critically of the project because of the fear of 'big brother'.

We landed in Yichang, which has its share of poor people. But we also saw a neigbourhood of 'rich' houses, which were built in a western style. There is such a gap between rich and poor.

Off to Shanghai today with visits to 2 other cities and back to Shanghai (for shopping). Where has my money gone? Dunno! Well, internet is very slow here. Waited 10 minutes for hotmail. I have an hour for less than 3 Canadian dollars. Tim wants some time to check his email.

How is my garden, Courtney and Tommy?*

Well, I will write later.

Mom/Melodie


*You're garden was more than well taken care of - Courtney

Huangzhou - July 24

Huangzhou, considered a small city of approx. 6 million, has the famous West Lake, which was re-created at the Summer Palace because its beauty was appreciated. In the morning, West Lake is busy with people dancing, singing, and practicing Tai Chi.

After leaving this city, we traveled by coach to the city of Suzhou. Enroute, we passed the most fertile farmlands in China that give 3 harvests annually. Because of the population growth, the government has bought up many farms and paid the farmers who, in turn, have constructed the most elaborate homes. While the farmers in this region appear more prosperous, farmers in other regions do not fare as well. Farmers are broadly categorized and include rickshaw drivers, coolies, street vendors etc. Because education is not free, it is extremely difficult for people without money to gain an education. The cycle of poverty is constant.

The lessening of farmlands has created a shortage in food, and rice has to be imported for the large cities. This is a worrisome trend with fertile farmland being developed for housing.

Suzhou - July 25

Suzhou is reknown for one of the most beautiful gardens in China. This garden was previously the home of a wealthy doctor. Its courtyard is surrounded by many, many rooms. It has a peaceful (minus all the multitude of people) and lovely atmosphere.

On the outskirts of the city (pop. 3 million), there are canals between the houses, which is why this city is considered the Venice of the East.

Email Sent on July 27


Hi Mom,

Tanya and I made a happy discovery. We visited a famous Tea Plantation, outside of Huangxhou City and discovered that the tea plantation is in the Mei Village. This is Dad's village (or at least his ancesters), which is a small village where the homes are neatly kept. The houses are used for a tea room, restaurant and hotel, as well as homes for the villagers. The surrounding hills are filled with tea plants and the scenery is beautiful. We learnt about different grades of tea and learnt that what we drink in Canada is poorer than what locals consider their worst tea. This was such an exciting discovery because we never knew much about Dad's life in China. While there are 'Muis' living in other parts of China and abroad, this is the Mei/Mui village. Now, we know that Dad came from a very pretty and prosperous part of China. It is not a poor village but prosperous as it is frequented by tourists and city people wanting a break from city life. The tea plantation is very old; so, it would have been in operation when Dad was a boy. It is a generational operation, called Mei Dragon Well Tea.

We are now in Shanghai, wrapping up our last few days. We are doing some shopping. I think that we all have gained some weight from eating so well. Tonight, we are taking a boat ride on the Watung (?) river.

We visited the city of Souzhou before coming to Shanghai. This is the eastern Venice as there are canals betweens homes. Very pretty but unfortunately the locals do not keep their city as clean as other cities.

Well, this may be the last email that I send as I am using the computer in Mrs. Mark's niece's condo as we are visiting her and her husband.

See you in a few days if I do not write again.

Love Melodie

Shanghai - July 26-29

With its population of 20 million, Shanghai is one of the largest cities in China. It is considered the fashion capital of the East; although, we were disappointed in the clothing (not the shoes, which were great) and handbags selection. While many items are exported to the west, they are not found in China. The items in China are Chinese-designed and not to our tastes.

Leaving China

China is a fascinating country (pop. 1.6 billion) with 2% more men than women. I viewed groups of young men but not young women. Because of the shortage of women, men marry women from other Asian countries, notably Korea. Also noted that baby boys outnumbered girls.

While the one child policy is still in effect, there are exceptions. If a farmer has a girl as a first child, he and his wife can try for a son, after 5 years. If this second child is another girl, and the farmer wants to try for a 3rd child, there will be a severe penalty. If the fine cannot be paid, the 3rd child will be unregistered and remain a non-person for life. The fine is so steep, that is it unlikely that the farmer can pay it. We were told a story of how a university lecturer lost his status, home, job and became a labourer after trying 4 times for a boy. The fifth child was a boy but the price was heavy.

China is a country that is rich with history - the dynasties make for good reading. With its rapid (catch up) development, it changes daily. There is major construction in all the cities that we visited. Cranes dot the skylines. Work is constant on the roadways and sidewalks. New homes and condos are being built. Will there always be the apartments where laundry is hung out the windows on either bamboo or steel racks? Will the shacks come down and be replaced with other housing? Possibly. Even the locals are worried about the rapidity of growth.

The cities that we visited were cleaner than Toronto. No litter and garbage on the streets and byways. The streets and highways were adorned with well-kept landscaping with major streets divided with tree-lined meridians for bikes. We saw groups of people, tending to the landscaping.

Of course, there are areas and regions of poverty, if not extreme poverty, but there are places of beauty that are set in history. The large cities are impressive.

I am truly glad that I made this trip to China. It was an educational and cultural experience.